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PUBLISHED ON
Iunie 05, 2025
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More precisely, while everyone heads north (Douro/Porto), we’re venturing into the central-southern region 
, and the “culprit” is one of Cosmin’s all-time favorites, made by a winery we actually got to visit: Casa Ermelinda Freitas.
Casa Ermelinda Freitas – Fat Baron Premium Red
How Did the Preparations for Portugal Start?
Well… early on
, as with nearly all our trips and getaways, because over time we’ve learned that if we don’t search and book in advance (4–6 months ahead), we risk missing out on the coolest stays or ending up paying sky-high prices.
So, we booked our flights to Lisbon back in December, and then in January, we started digging for accommodations.
As a rule, we skip chain or big-name hotels and go for apartments, aparthotels (when we’re in cities and want a more “urban” vibe), or boutique agroturismos, relais, or even working farms (when we’re exploring the countryside)—basically, stays that offer unique experiences and truly connect you to the place.
We mixed it up: 2 days in Lisbon (because… food and history), 2 days on the Setúbal Peninsula (wine tastings), and 2 days in Comporta (ocean time).
Right now, we’re zeroing in on Setúbal, because that’s where we truly discovered what Alentejo wines are all about (not to be confused with Alvarinho… as yours truly embarrassingly mixed up in a Lisbon wine bar).
- Alentejo – literally “the land beyond the Tagus River”—covers about a third of Portugal. It boasts an astonishing variety of soils: clay, sand, loam, schist, marble, and granite. Even more fascinating is the terrain. Picture mountains, rolling hills, cork-oak forests, sand dunes, olive groves, marshes, estuaries, and finally… endless vineyards. I’ve never seen such a stunning patchwork. And you’ll taste every bit of it in the wines.
- Alvarinho (Albariño in Spain) – is a typically dry white from the north of the Iberian Peninsula—crisp, lightly effervescent, and a total superstar behind the famous Vinho Verde, which pairs perfectly with anything from the sea.
…oh, and one more thing to remember: Alentejo is used for DOC-classified wines, while Alentejano is for regional wines.
First Stop: Setúbal
We rented a car in Lisbon and drove about an hour to our first stay in Setúbal, insisting on a slight detour to cross the stunning **Vasco da Gama Bridge**, the longest in the EU at 17.2 km (second-longest in Europe after the Crimean Bridge linking Russia to Crimea… long story, we’ll skip the details).
We chose the city center, famous for its estuary, dolphins, and natural parks, to be as close as possible to the sights. By evening, we set out to explore. The town is compact, you might think it’s not very touristy, dominated by locals and you can stroll through the center in under an hour. Yet it’s charming and authentic. When it comes to restaurants and bars, you’ll find almost anything. We were thrilled to meet Romanians settled in Setúbal, even in the wine industry.
Daniela Gourmet was our first wine bar stop, where we enjoyed our first 100% Portuguese aperitif: a glass of Madeira wine, a fortified wine from the island of the same name, over 300 years old in tradition, with velvety notes of roasted nuts, caramel, and ripe fruit over stories… in Romanian.Next up: Moscatel de Setúbal Experience, where we tried the famous “choco frito” (fried cuttlefish) paired with Moscatel de Setúbal, a fortified, honey-sweetened dessert wine, truly unique with its tangerine and dried apricot notes (take that, Port wine!).
We finished up at Beco da Ribeira, under the shade of a ‘mimosa’ tree, which charmed us and beautifully decorated the wine glasses that followed… wine from Casa Ermelinda Freitas (again!). And now, at the risk of sounding “cheesy and staged,” this is where we tested other varieties from this superb winery… and the one I still dream about and will forever remind me of this trip is none other than Quinta da Mimosa 2022. A wine so concentrated and spicy… a mix of black cherries, plums, and figs, leather and tobacco, and towards the finish… warm dark chocolate, with a super long finish. Rich, expressive, and complex, 10/10, j’adore!
The next morning…
We cheerfully headed to Casa Ermelinda Freitas in the village of Fernando Pó to see the winery and vineyard wonder with our own eyes. We immediately noticed how arid the area was, even though it was only June, with scorching temperatures and soil so sandy it felt like beach sand, dotted with plenty of leaves on the vines.We learned it’s one of Portugal’s largest wineries (440 hectares, producing up to 20 million liters) and highly awarded (over 900 prizes), founded in 1920 and predominantly run by women , currently led by Leonor Freitas, daughter of Ermelinda.Back to the soil… which truly left an impression: it’s apparently ideal for a local grape called Castelão – also known as Periquita, grown on nearly 60% of Setúbal’s vines. The remaining 40% includes 30 grape varieties, both native (like Touriga Nacional, Aragonez, and Trincadeira) and international (Shiraz, Merlot, Chardonnay, etc.).Though its heart is in Setúbal, the Casa Ermelinda estate has expanded over time and now owns vineyard plots in the Douro as well.Another standout feature of Portuguese wines, and I think I mentioned it earlier—is the price. We simply couldn’t believe it. Check the photo below to see for yourself…
The journey continues with: Évora.
A true gem of a town, an open-air museum with a UNESCO-listed historic center, often called the “capital” of the Alentejo region.
The photos speak for themselves, so I’ll skip the metaphors (just dropping a quick top-5 must-see spots below):
- Sé de Évora – the Cathedral
- Roman Temple – Diana’s Temple
- Capela dos Ossos (inside the cathedral)
- Praça do Giraldo (the “main” square and historic heart)
- Whitewashed buildings adorned with iconic “azulejos” tiles
The concept is brilliantly executed: minimalist design that’s highly sensory and interactive. Here we truly got to know the native grape varieties, sniff their aromas, and finally taste them.
I’m left with beautiful memories and a bottle of Primeiro Nome – the first white wine (besides Alvarinho) I tried… and fell in love with instantly. Melted butter, yellow melon, and apricot, yet still fresh, lightly mineral, with just the right acidity from lime notes.
Final Stop: Cartuxa Enoteca
It’s more than a restaurant or wine bar, it’s another unique concept where Alentejo wines blend seamlessly with regional cuisine… with a modern twist .
Would we return to Portugal? Sim, por favor! (Actually, we already have tickets for September 2025 ).
