Though it’s sadly one of Europe’s least-visited gems, Moldova has so much to offer, and we’ve been eagerly waiting for years to finally set foot on the lands across the Prut River. The wait dragged on thanks to the pandemic, then conflicts in neighboring countries, but we mustered up the courage last year and dove into our first real “wine trip” abroad. Now, looking back, I’m flooded with emotions realizing just how transformative that journey to Moldova truly was

After weeks of deep diving into research, crafting the itinerary, and locking in bookings, we were off at the end of spring 2024 for an epic 8-day adventure.

Fascinating Facts About Moldova…

On this little slice of earth, grapevines have been cultivated since 7000 BC, and thanks to Greek colonization along the Black Sea coast (7th century BC), new grape varieties arrived alongside wine making know-how. Fast-forward to the 15th century when Russia enters the picture, turning Moldova into the main wine supplier for the Russian market, a bond strengthened by ruler Stephen the Great, who, in a bid to escape the Ottomans, forged an alliance (via his daughter’s marriage) with the Russian state.

We jump to the 18th century, when in “Descriptio Moldaviae” (ah, that schoolbook classic comes rushing back), Dimitrie Cantemir makes the first attempt to classify Moldavian wines, we’d call him an influencer today, because after publishing the book, Moldova’s wines skyrocketed in fame. So much fame that the USSR ramped up vineyard acreage but skimped on quality. Operating on a “quantity over quality” mindset, Moldova churned out massive volumes, becoming the world’s 6th largest wine producer by 1982 .But the wheel turned in 1985, and Moldova fell victim to its own success when the USSR launched a brilliant anti-alcohol campaign, effectively deciding to rip out 30% of the country’s vineyards. Then came embargoes, bans, and more restrictions that blocked access to the Russian market, which snapped up nearly 80% of the volume. The silver lining? After 2006, Moldova could finally shift gears to quality over quantity. I picked the title “land of contrasts” because Moldova boasts some of the world’s most quirky records, including:

• the highest density of vineyards on the planet (sure, helped by the country’s tiny 33,843 km² size, but vineyards cover nearly 3.5% of the land compared to France’s rounded 1.5%)
• the world’s largest underground cellars / biggest wine collections (Guinness Records) – Mileștii Mici and Cricova (more on these soon)
• the world’s largest building shaped like a bottle (?!?!) aptly named the “Museum of Strong Beverages”
• Europe’s lowest GDP (though the war might have handed that title to Ukraine recently)
• the only country with not one but two “National Wine Days” (to really drive home the importance ) on the second Saturday and Sunday of October every year
• 13th place globally for wine exports
• 1/3 of the population involved in the wine industry

And… something we kinda saw coming :

• with all that involvement, it also held the record for highest per capita alcohol consumption (back in 2005, to be precise)

Despite the poverty and resource shortages, we met the warmest, most welcoming people, discovered a surprisingly cool and evolving capital, savored storybook-worthy dishes, immersed in rich traditions and customs… and tasted exceptional wines. I’m glad I held off writing about Moldavia until now, after tons of trips both domestically and abroad, especially to famed wine regions like Bordeaux, Barolo, Rheingau, Alentejo, and more I can confidently say Moldavia truly holds its own.

Sub-regions

When it comes to wine subregions, some sources claim three zones, others four, namely:

• Codru – central – famed for white varieties (with a big focus on sparklers) and home to some of Moldavia’s largest vineyards and wineries like Mileștii Mici, Cricova, Asconi, Castel Mimi, and Chateau Vartely
• Valul lui Traian – southwest – a truly unique spot with clay soils packed with microelements, plus it encompasses Gagauzia and its capital Comrat… featuring both whites and reds that are incredibly aromatic and deeply pigmented
• Ștefan-Vodă – southeast – the heart of red wines, boosted by iron-rich soils, proudly represented by Chateau Purcari
• Bălți or Divin – north – more known for grape-based distillates than wine… which might explain why it doesn’t show up in every source

Climate and Soil

You could say the Moldovan landscape was truly “blessed” (in a manner of speaking) with some of the most fertile soils for agriculture. Moldova and southern Ukraine are legendary for their famous《chernozem》 or “black earth,” perfect for growing crops and especially ideal for viticulture thanks to its water-retention and root-aeration superpowers.
Down south, particularly around Purcari, we find a clayey chernozem rich in rubidium, an element that amps up the pigment and tannins in red wines… stay tuned for the scoop on the iconic “Negru de Purcari.”
The climate is temperate-continental with maritime influences, featuring warm summers and cold-to-moderate winters, while the vineyard terrain mixes flatlands with hills at average elevations of 200m, prime for soaking up the sun.
A must-mention: the roles of the Prut and Dniester rivers, and even the indirect maritime vibes from the Danube and Black Sea in the south, especially in the Ștefan-Vodă district (you guessed it: big winner Purcari wines)

Vineyards and Tastings

In a fairly short time, we’re proud to say we ticked off Moldova’s three main wine regions and five vineyards, though only two offered on-site stays.

• Codru : Mileștii Mici – Cricova – Castel Mimi

We opted to base ourselves in Chișinău in a Booking.com apartment and grab taxis to the first two wineries both just a short hop from the capital (about 30 minutes) and it was the smartest move, so no one had to play designated driver.
We chose these two because, even knowing they’re pretty “mainstream,” the experience was unmissable. Both are massive labyrinth complexes literal underground wine cities with streets named after grape varieties geared for wine tourism, card payments accepted, guided tours in Romanian and English, and we highly recommend hopping on the little train for a whirl through the subterranean galleries (check out the footage on our Instagram post).
You can wing it and show up spontaneously, no need to call weeks ahead, but still check the schedule online or book via their sites.
From the wines we sampled, Cricova’s sparkling wines blew us away: prestige bottlings, the first made in Moldavia using the traditional/Champenoise method. Not as wowed by Viorica, the super-floral and perfumed native grape that, sadly, just didn’t click for us

We pressed on to Castel Mimi, Moldavia’s first authentic castle/chateau, about 40 minutes from Chișinău. The estate in Bolboaca is vast and jaw-droppingly impressive, built to host over 30,000 visitors a year, complete with boutique hotel lodging, a pool, museum, conference halls, and a fine-dining restaurant all on-site.
The castle was founded in 1893 by Constantin Mimi, Bessarabia’s last governor, who, after studying viticulture in France (Montpellier), brought that expertise back home.Must-try: Feteasca Neagră 2019

• We head to the Ștefan Vodă District, where we find: Chateau Purcari – Etcetera Winery

Sticking to our spontaneous vibe, we didn’t book anything ahead this time either, but unfortunately, we couldn’t swing a tasting or cellar tour we just ordered a few wines from the menu at the winery’s restaurant.
It was such a shame, because I’m sure we would’ve uncovered way more about the estate’s history… not to mention the tastings. Purcari is world-famous in the wine scene, especially for its reds that rival Bordeaux-style blends.
And that’s exactly what shines in the iconic “Negru de Purcari“, a wine often poured for European royal families, racking up prestigious awards left and right, and for me, it’s the ultimate symbol of Moldavian wines. The blend of Saperavi (from Georgia), Rară Neagră (Moldavia), and Cabernet Sauvignon (France) delivers layers of complexity, bold intensity, serious tannic power, and pure elegance. We can’t recommend it enough and on Vivino, it’s rated 4.4 with a steal of a price at just 24€.

We approached the Ukrainian border with a mix of excitement and nerves, arriving at our next boutique winery stay: Etcetera Winery. The vibe and scale shift here, but in the best way more personal and cozy, with decor that has that effortless French “je ne sais quoi”. Featuring a guesthouse and chalets named after the grape varieties they grow (Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Saperavi, Pinot Noir, Merlot, and Feteasca Neagră), the vineyard doesn’t boast centuries of history founded after 2000 by the Luchianov brothers but it shines through its personal touch on the wines and hospitality. We felt completely at home and would return in a heartbeat.

• Our final stop, nerves kicking in again: Gagauzia, specifically the wines from Comrat.

A bold and utterly unforgettable choice that pushed all the boundaries.
I’m not sure how many have even heard of the “autonomous region” of Gagauzia, but we certainly never imagined it producing wine… and such high-quality wine at that. It’s a whole different world where ONLY Russian is spoken, with unique customs, traditions, and culture all its own.
I won’t dive into describing Gagauzia, I’ll leave that to the historians for a more accurate take we’re here for the wines and the journey overall.
We booked our stay via Booking.com, drawn to the traditional Gagauz style: super rustic, with a restaurant where we dove into local cuisine blending Turkish and Balkan influences.
Communication was a real challenge, lots of gestures and occasional Google Translate but we didn’t get a winery tour. Still, we were blown away by the sheer intensity of the wines from Karagani.

A truly one-of-a-kind experience.